Snaefellsjokull National Park

A Journey to the Centre of the Earth!

The glacier-topped strato-volcano Snaefellsjokull is renowned for its mystical powers and is one of the most famous sites of Iceland, primarily due to the novel “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” by Jules Verne, in which the protagonists find the entrance to a passage leading to the center of the earth on Snaefellsjokull..

Snaefellsjokull (Snaefell glacier) National Park was established on June 28, 2001. The Park's purpose is to protect and conserve the area's unique landscape, indigenous plant and animal life as well as important historical relics. At the same time, the Park is meant to allow visitors easier access as well as improved opportunities to get to know the area.

National parks are amongst Iceland's finest assets and everyone is free to explore them. Park Rangers operate in the area during the summer months, providing information as well as monitoring and tending the area. Visitors are encouraged to contact Park Rangers for assistance or information about the area

Geography and Geology

Snaefellsjokull National Park – Iceland's only National Park to extend to the seashore – covers an area of 170 km2 (65 sq. miles). The Park's southern boundary reaches to Haahraun in the region of Dagverdara while the northern part reaches to Gufuskalar. The coast is varied and alive with birdlife during the breeding season. The coastal plain is mostly covered by lava that flowed from the glacier or nearby craters.

The lava is covered with moss but sheltered hollows can be found in many places, filled with a sizable variety of thriving, verdant plants. The omnipresent Snaefellsjokull glacier towers majestically over the Park, with trails of lava and signs of volcanic activity clearly visible on its flanks. On its north side the Eysteinsdalur valley cuts a path up from the plain encircled by alluring steep mountains.

The geology of Snaefellsnes Peninsula is diverse with formations from almost every era of Iceland's past. The more prominent formations in and around the National Park mainly date from geologically "modern" times back to the last ice age. The hills to the north of the glacier, around Bardarkista, are of volcanic palagonite tuff, formed during eruptions under the glacier or below the surface of the sea. Svalthufa is most likely the eastern section of a crater that erupted under the sea, while Londrangar is a volcanic plug.

Lava is prominent on the landscape of this National Park with two types present – rough, jagged lava and smooth, ropy lava. Most of the lava emanated from the glacier, from the summit crater or from subsidiary craters on the flanks of the mountain. These lava formations are varied and fascinating, and there is a wealth of caves in the area. Visitors are advised not to enter caves unless accompanied by an experienced guide. Smaller volcanoes – Purkholar, Holaholar, Saxholar and Ondverdarnesholar – are in the Park's lowlands, surrounded by lava.

The Snaefellsjokull Glacier

The Snaefellsjokull glacier is 1446m (4745 ft) above sea level. It was first climbed in 1754. The mountain is an active volcano, having been built up through numerous eruptions during the last 800,000 years. The summit crater is 200m (650 ft) deep, and full of ice. The glacier has shrunken somewhat in recent years. The flanks of the glacier are particularly attractive with intertwining lava streams forming long "plaits" down the slopes. The latest eruption was very large and took place around 1800 years ago. Light-coloured ash covered the northern half of Snaefellsnes Peninsula and was carried over much of the West Fjords. Lava flowed down the southern slopes of the mountain and the Haahraun lava field was formed during this eruption.

The glacier has been a never-ending source of inspiration for poets and artists from around the world. Indeed, more than a few people say they feel a powerful influence from the glacier and consider it to be one of the world's seven most potent energy sources.

Plant Life

The ground of Snaefellsnes Peninsula is mostly porous, not retaining water. Nevertheless, there is a broad variety of plant habitats within the National Park – from its coast to its mountain peaks. Coastal plants are numerous and crystal-clear pools abound with colourful kelp and other seaweed. The lava is covered with a thick layer of moss. Flowering plants thrive in sheltered hollows. Tree growth is limited and there are no tall trees to be found. Amongst rare plants are wood millet and herb-Paris, the latter of which is a protected species. Heather is widespread, and in late summer there are good crops of crowberries, bilberries and blueberries.

Animal Life

As may be expected, the Park's birdlife is dominated by seabirds. Guillemot, razorbill, fulmar, kittiwake and shag are amongst the Park’s most common types of seabirds. Black guillemots can be seen around Malarrif and Londrangar. Gulls nest in most areas, with the predominant species in the region being the great and lesser black-backed gulls, herring gull and glaucous gull. Songs abound from common heathland birds such as the golden plover, whimbrel, meadow pipit, snow bunting and wheatear. Other common birds are the white wagtail, oystercatcher, ringed plover, purple sandpiper, raven, and ptarmigan. Redwings can be seen in hollows in the lava. During the spring and autumn a large number of migratory birds, including the Brent goose, turnstone and knot visit the region.

Foxes, minks and field mice live in the area as well. During a walk along the coast you can expect to see seals – both the common seal and the grey seal – although not in large numbers. There is an abundance of life in pools left by receding tides. Marine snails, fairy shrimp, crabs, small fish including rock eels, and other sea creatures will catch the eye of an observant visitor. Cetaceans such as killer whales, minke whales and porpoises are common around Snaefellsnes Peninsula, but larger species of whales keep to deeper waters farther from the coast.

History

The adventurous Bardur Saga Snaefellsas is the best known of the Icelandic Sagas that take place in this area. There are archaeological remains from the period of Iceland's settlement around 1100 years ago – examples of which are the Forni-Saxholl farm, Berutoftir and Irskubudir. Near Gufuskalar there are a large number of dome-like structures of unknown origin, thought to be between 500 and 700 years old. They are probably the oldest known relics of the fishing industry in Scandinavia. A few people believe that these structures served instead as places of prayer or meditation for Irish monks who may have once lived in this area.

Fishing flourished in the 13th century and the human population grew in the areas around the glacier. A church had been built on Ingjaldsholl hill before 1200 AD. The size of the church bears witness to the sizeable population of nearby towns and villages, at least during fishing season. Rich fishing grounds were nearby and fishing stations were constructed where there was good access to the open sea. Dritvik is one of the best-known examples. It was one of the largest fishing stations in Iceland for a time, with 40-60 boats and 200-600 people employed there. Fishing declined on Snaefellsnes Peninsula during the 19th century because of changes in fishing techniques.

Approaches and Services

National Road 574, Utnesvegur, follows a course through the National Park and can be used as a northern or southern approach. There are no campsites in the National Park but there are many in the vicinity (There is campsite at Snjofell-Arnarstapi) as well as a selection of accommodations and restaurants to suit all tastes. Olafsvik, Lysuholl, Grundarfjordur and Stykkisholmur all have heated public swimming pools. The nearest grocery stores are in Hellissandur, Rif, Olafsvik and Vegamot. There are petrol stations at most of these locations, as well as in Arnarstapi.